Before I went to Shanghai, a reliable source who had been to the city told me that the city is known for its dumplings. Especially the shēngjiān (生煎; fried dumplings.) These are fried in a great pan over a gas fire, and are filled with yummy fillings. The big surprise comes when you bite into the dumpling and soup gushes out - and onto your shirt if you are not mindful.
I was keen for some of that stuff. So, for my first Chinese breakfast, Sonia left me at our local Costa coffee place with a big cup of latte, and on her walk to the bank found me some lovely soup dumplings, or xiaolongbao, that she bought from a street vendor. Very cheap, very tasty, and I love street food. It was a good way to start my dumpling adventure.
My first bowl of Shanghai dumplings. Yummy!
But these were not fried dumplings. Where should we go?
Sonia was not sure, but I had made a new friend at Costa - a young man who had grown up in Shanghai, gone to one of the International Schools, spoke English, and knew the best place to get fried dumplings - Yang's Dumplings. Conveniently, they were in the mall complex right across from our hotel. So one evening, we crossed the street (over a pedestrian bridge with exits in every direction) and went two floors underground to Yang's.
Yang's Fry Dumplings did not look impressive. In fact, it looked like a cheap fast food joint - bright illuminated colored signs, little booths for four or two, plastic plates and bowls, and cheap silverware. But there was a long line snaking out the door and around the corner so we knew we were in the right place. Sonia and I got on the line, and waited. Finally, we were at the window, and I ordered a plate of six dumplings, mixed fillings.
Then we watched a woman in another window put lots of dumplings in a humungous flat pan and fry them over a heat source. When they were ready, she plucked out our orders onto plates, and we sat down, and bit into the most amazing food I had ever eaten! Thick outer skin, soup or juices squirting out (and yes onto my clothes) and the insides were either pork or chicken or some green yummy vegetable mix. Pretty amazing food.
Here's Sonia about to bite into that lusciousness! Check out the pink decor.
Since we were in Shanghai for a few days, we had more dumplings. One of the first schools we visited took us to a great neighborhood restaurant out for a six or seven (or eight) course Chinese lunch! Among the wonderful food dishes were more fabulous Shanghai dumplings in soup.
A table full of delights - both culinary and human.
After my last show, Sonia and I got to talking about dumplings with one of the teachers. She suggested we go out with her to her favorite whole in the wall dumpling joint. How could we refuse?
Sonia, our new friend, and more dumplings.
When I was in Hong Kong, I did end up in a famous won ton restaurant, but I did not read the matchbox that told me of that fact, so I ordered my soup without dumplings, white bread and butter, and scrambled eggs. Bummer. I wonder what they tasted like.
My last night in China, we are back in Shanghai, and Sonia and I go for dumplings at what is now my, if not Sonia's, favorite place - yes, you guessed it, Yang's Fry Dumplings. Yummy.
If you are ever in Shanghai, get some dumplings. Soup, fry or in a steamer - they are worth it.
My last night in China, we are back in Shanghai, and Sonia and I go for dumplings at what is now my, if not Sonia's, favorite place - yes, you guessed it, Yang's Fry Dumplings. Yummy.
This is the "place" to go.
If you are ever in Shanghai, get some dumplings. Soup, fry or in a steamer - they are worth it.
Be sure to check out Sonia's blog for her take on the dumplings, writtenselfie.blogspot.comwrittenselfie.blogspot.com.
I read "mixed fillings" as "mixed feelings". We did have a bit of that as well!
ReplyDeleteI almost do not dare say this in public, but that LUNCH and the dinner with the new friend...they were on the exact same day. Ehem!
Deletehmmm
Deletemaybe you are right
too many time zones....